Mastering
the Restaurant Wine List
On
the other hand, if the list is a small, laminated card that offers you the less
than a thrilling choice of "Red, White, or Rosé," it's probably
Miller time. Unless it happens to be
a small café in the south of France, a decent beer would probably be a better
choice in such situations. A proper wine list falls between these two extremes,
offering a good choice of types, varietals, vintage years, appellations, and
prices. An accurate, well-structured wine list, with well-chosen, medium-priced
wines geared to the establishment's menu, benefits both the restaurant and the
customer.
Look
for thoroughness and accuracy on any wine list. There's nothing more
discouraging to a wine lover than a list with misspelled producers, omitted
appellations, absent vintage dates, or other glaring errors. These days, when
almost every restaurant has access to a computer, there is no excuse for wine
lists with vintages and prices scratched out several times and rewritten by
hand. You would have second thoughts about any kitchen that was so sloppy in
preparing its menu. Why shouldn't the wine list be clean and fresh, too? You
also have the right to expect that every wine listed will be in stock. Many
establishments list “stock” wines and then try to switch you to higher
priced wines, or poor vintages of the same one.
The
Menu
Believe
it or not, some people refuse to buy wines that are true bargains. One buyer for
a prominent restaurant put a wine on his list at $24. It didn't sell until he
marked it up to $32, then it began to move briskly. Most people evidently think
you have to spend at least $30 to get a decent bottle. Not true! There are
bargains on most wine lists. Avoid the big blockbuster names with three-digit
prices and move to a more remote section of the list, where sommeliers will
generally put some of their special finds, at very reasonable prices. You won't
find bargains in the Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon list; look at the Syrahs and
Pinot Noirs instead, or possibly varieties from other countries.
The wines of Austria, Spain, or Chile can be great values, as can the
lovely cru Beaujolais from France. Look for a Cabernet from Argentina instead of
a cult label from Napa. Finally, ask the sommelier for a lesser-known wine that
he personally likes.
The
Bottle
The
waiter should proceed to pour a small portion (an ounce or less) of the wine, so
that the person who chose it can taste. What should you look for at this point? Make
sure the wine is clear and has a vibrant color. Sniff it to ascertain that it
doesn't have any funky, off smells or tastes. The most common problem
encountered at this point is that the wine is termed "corked," or
ruined by contact with a cork that has transmitted bacterial spoilage to the
wine. A corked wine smells moldy, like a damp cellar. If you have any doubts,
ask the sommelier to try the wine and offer his or her opinion. Most sommeliers
will be honest if they detect flaws in the wine.
Be
aware that the aroma and taste of most wines will open over the course of a
meal, revealing more character and charm than when first uncorked. Give the wine
a chance! Refusing an uncorked bottle should be a very rare occurrence,
justified only if the wine is flawed in some way — the result of a bad cork or
improper storage. Wine should never be sent back simply because you don't happen
to like it. Reach an understanding in advance with the sommelier about what type
of wine you want, and then stick with your choice.
The
most important thing to keep in mind is that ordering wine in a restaurant
should be fun, not a tedious chore. Loosen up. Experiment. Try wines you've
never heard of. Enjoy!
Information and tips for finding end enjoying everyday wines from Europe and other major wine regions:
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