Bolmida Barolo

by winenews on Jun.15, 2011, under Reviews

Did you ever hear the words fresh or clean to describe a wine, especially a Barolo? Well that pretty well describes the wines of this small producer in the Piedmont.

Silvano Bolmida was gracious enough to give an extended tour of his wine making process. Bolmida makes drinkable Barolo Bussia, vintage Nebbiolo, and Barbera and Dolcetto. La BUSSIA di MONFORTE d’ALBA is not only a little village, a place set in the wonderful panorama of the Langhe. La Bussia is one of the first outstanding sub-zones, famous for generating wines with complex and constant organoleptic originality. Fond appraisers worldwide have acknowledged these characteristics.

Silvano was born in these hills and, after a ten-year experience in a historical winery in Barolo, he decided to run the family business with a wave of experimentation and innovation. He never lost sight of the personality of tastes and scents of Bolmida classic vines and of the ground rich in Miocenic sand and marine microfossils. He cultivate 5 hectares of vineyards together with the family. A special attention to the low amounts of grapes for every singles vine (in June all bunches are cut in half) and the care given to leaves and shoots allows a better photosynthesis and the correct maturation. Frequent tillage ensures not only a natural weedkiller but also a right oxygenation and an organic change in the deepest layers.
During the harvest the grapes are handpicked, and the development of the analytic and polyphenolic values of every single portion of vineyard is taken into account in order to produce wines whose flavour richness and elegance are characteristics already present in each bunch.

The long fermentation on the skins gives the wine its organoleptic completeness. The immediate placing in barrique and tonneaux (only a few are new) with lees helps the polymerization and the stabilization of the polyphenolic constituents. The bottling without filtering guarantees the total respect of its characteristics. A long fining in bottle – 14 months and longer for Barolo- succeeds in getting the wine ready to drink when released and it will be up to the consumer whether to appreciate their harmonious youth or wait for the complexity in the evolution. In both cases the wine represents the identity of the vine, of the area, of the producer and of the family.

The Bussia docg is perhaps one of the best Barolo regions. Bolmida’s Bussia carefully follows the evolution of the polyphenolic maturation. It is in the second week of October that they harvest only the most precious bunches, most of them produced by 50-year-old vines. These Nebbioli ferment on the skins over 4 weeks. As for the Barolo Vigne Fantini maturation takes place the first year in barrique in contact with the lees and the second and third year in small oak barrels and 500-litre tonneaux. Bottled without filtering at the beginning of the third year, it is fined in bottle for further 14 months before release. From a surface of 13,700 square metres only 6,000 bottles on average are produced.

Private tours of Bolmida can be arranged. We thank Silvano for showing off his very special, clean, fresh wines.

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